Gabrieau's Restaurant Article
Gabrieau's a Recipe for Success
Mark DeWolf, from Occasions Magazine
FIERCE LOYALTY, INTENSE PRIDE…in Antigonish these words are often reserved for St. Francis Xavier University. St FX alumni support is arguably the strongest of any university in Canada. In fact, the X ring might just be the most recognized school ring in the country. This overwhelming devotion was not lost on Mark and Karen Gabrieau when they decided to open a restaurant in the town in the summer of 1999.
While Mark and Karen Gabrieau were confident of their decision to purchase and renovate the old Adams Bakery building in March of 1999, there was undoubtedly some speculation amongst the restaurant scene. Could a fine dining restaurant work in this quaint small town?
Intimates of the Nova Scotia restaurant scene were aware that Mark Gabrieau was a talented chef, but few could have guessed the savvy business sense the Gabrieaus possessed. The Gabrieau’s Bistro success is indeed a simple recipe of one part culinary talent, one part atmosphere and one part good business sense.
Mark’s culinary background is extensive, with culinary training in Nova Scotia and the Culinary Institute of America in New York. He has worked as a professional in Germany, the Caribbean and Vancouver, but it was childhood experiences that have had the greatest influence on his style.
Indeed there is something for everyone, including appetizers such as a rich and creamy seafood chowder accented with fresh herbs, Pernod and a tomato concasse, an intensely flavourful duck confit and crépe roulade served with sweet pear and port chutney. As for main courses, there is something for the safe and the adventurous alike.There’s a simple but deliciously grilled 9 oz. center cut strip loin, an Asian-influenced grilled shrimp and a Thai vegetable risotto—two widely divergent dishes with flavour and substance as their common link.
Despite the variety on his menu, Mark believes all his dishes can ultimately be classified as comfort cuisine. “Each bit of food should be an enjoyable experience,” he says. “Our customers often tell us that everything on the plate is delicious, not just the main item. The vegetables, the potato, the sauce and the garnish, everything has been cared for.”
This sense of comfort is extended to Gabrieau’s atmosphere—a point often lost with many new fine dining establishments. How often have you gone to a ‘fine’ restaurant only to feel like you have walked into a stark, cold room that may have style but the intimacy and comfort of a subway car? Gabrieau’s takes the opposite approach. The room is tastefully decorated and the first step in Gabrieau’s is warm and welcoming.
The decision to make Gabrieau’s a comfortable bistro extends beyond the décor. Price point in a small town such as Antigonish is critical. While Antigonish has an unusual base of educated and well-traveled consumers—thanks to the existence of a regional hospital and one of Canada’s premiere universities—there was still a need to address the price issue. In fact, providing fine dining cuisine at a bistro price was a challenge at first, but Mark says his restaurant has “been able to overcome this in the last few years.”
The pricing model extends to the wine list as well. Mark, an accredited Sommelier, offers one of the finest wine lists in the province. At any given time, the cellar has over a thousand bottles, many of which do not go on the wine list until they are ready to drink. In most markets, this would extend to significant mark-ups, as there is a considerable cost associated with such a cellaring program. Not so at Gabrieau’s.
The pricing system is by no means a simple reflection of a desire to just give diners the best price possible. The Gabrieaus recognized the needs of their clientele. In fact, they did such a good job of recognizing these needs that they were able to construct the Hawthorne property in 2002, which houses three apartments and an intimate banquet facility for private dining, small functions, cooking classes and wine appreciation training. In 2004, they opened Gabrieau’s Culinary Closet, a retail store where they sell cooking and entertaining essentials.
The Gabrieaus’ success story is based on a recipe of one part culinary talent, one part atmosphere, one part good business sense garnished with a sprig of loyal customers.